Go hog wild at City Pork

From salads to sandwiches, these culinary creations score big

The wedge salad doesn’t have many moving parts. There’s your wedge of iceberg lettuce, your blue cheese dressing, your bacon, a smattering of tomatoes. City Pork, like with much of its menu, has elevated the humble wedge to heavenly.

First off, there’s the wedge, which in this case is actually an entire half of a head of iceberg. It’s luxuriating in a pile of creamy, fresh blue cheese dressing, with even more poured over it. A drizzle of dressing, this is not. The whole thing is then topped with crisp, succulent pieces of house-made bacon and surrounded with juicy cherry tomatoes and a scattering of green onions.

The salad ($8) is great. But that’s not really the reason to go to a place called City Pork. The reason to go to City Pork is the Cubano ($10). In fact, City Pork’s Cubano could be the reason for doing a lot of things, like getting out of bed or going to work. This sandwich — I don’t even have a word for how good it is — possesses magical powers. It all starts roughly 17 hours before you order it, when they start cooking the pork shoulder. After its hibernation, the tender, succulent pork is stacked on Poupart’s po-boy bread with honey ham, house pickles, dijon and Swiss, then pressed together. I’m telling you, peace processes would end in hugs and bi-partisan legislation could pass Congress with this sandwich.

The other sandwiches aren’t slouches either. The Big Pig ($9) slathers that 17-hour pork shoulder in a Carolina barbecue sauce, tops it with slaw, and puts the whole lot on a rich brioche bun. The BLT takes the bacon that’s on the wedge and drapes it over fresh lettuce and tomato on multigrain bread ($9). You’ll want to add the fried egg ($1.50). Just trust me. All the sandwiches come with house-made potato chips and a clean, crisp house-made pickle.

House-made pops up a lot at City Pork. Meats, cheeses, pickles, chips and dressings are, by and large, made on the spot. City Pork also sells a lot of them in a small deli area — try the smoked cheddar and the turkey breast. Local comes up a lot, too. Bread comes from Poupart’s, cheese from St. James Creamery. The soda selection includes Louisiana’s own Swamp Pop. Both the satsuma and ginger ale are clean tasting with just a hint of sweetness — perfect foils for the rich meats.

Seating is limited, so there’s almost always a wait for a table, and, if you’re on your lunch break, you might want to allow yourself time to wait a little in line. It’s worth it.