Hunkering down to watch sports on TV usually involves grabbing the traditional grub — chicken wings, sliders, nachos, that sort of stuff.
But with the Olympics in Russia looming, I thought it might be fun to turn instead to a classic of Russian cuisine — beef stroganoff. A rich dish with a noble birthright (scholars disagree about which particular Count Stroganov the dish is named for), beef stroganoff was a staple at America’s tonier restaurants during the ’60s and ’70s.
The standard recipe calls for thinly sliced beef with a sauce of sauteed mushrooms and sour cream. But I’ve engineered a healthy version that delivers luxurious flavor using lean ground beef and low-fat sour cream.
The obvious appeal of lean ground beef is that it cuts the fat. But you’ll need to counterbalance the tendency of lean ground beef to turn into a dry burger. Usually I reach for sauteed onions or shredded carrots or cabbage. But this time, out of respect for traditional stroganoff, it made sense to go with mushrooms.
I found using soaked dried mushrooms worked out better. Dried mushrooms — soaked in chicken broth, water or wine — bring two assets to any recipe: the mushrooms themselves and the instant (and deeply flavorful) sauce provided by the soaking liquid.
Teamed up with some caramelized onions, the mushrooms made the burgers nice and moist. The veggies also added bulk. Now the burgers weren’t just moist, they were plump and substantial, qualities that don’t apply to the standard quarter-pounder.
Truthfully, the burgers are just an excuse for the sauce. Made of caramelized onions, fresh cremini mushrooms and the mushroom soaking liquid, then finished with low-fat sour cream and Dijon mustard, this sauce is a mushroom lover’s dream. When it is added to the burgers, you have a dish luxurious enough for a king, let alone a count.
Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.”
Beef Stroganov Burgers
Serves 4. Recipe is by Sara Moulton.
1 oz. dried mushrooms (porcini, shiitake, chanterelle, oyster, button or a mix)
11/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
3 tbls. vegetable oil, divided
1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
1 tsp. minced garlic
4 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms, trimmed and thinly sliced
11/2 tbls. all-purpose flour
1/4 cup low-fat sour cream
2 tsps. Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 lb. 90 to 95 percent lean ground beef
1. In a small saucepan over medium-high, combine dried mushrooms with broth and bring to a boil. Cover, remove from the heat and let stand for 15 minutes, or until the mushrooms are soft. Reserving the broth, strain the mixture through a strainer lined with a wet paper towel. Clean the mushrooms if you see any dirt on the edges, then finely chop and set aside.
2. While the dried mushrooms are soaking, in a large nonstick skillet over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of oil. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer half of the onion mixture to a medium bowl.
3. Add another tablespoon of oil and fresh mushrooms to the skillet and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms give off all their liquid. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the reserved mushroom broth in a stream, whisking, then bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Whisk in the sour cream and mustard; season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a saucepan and keep warm.
4. Wash the skillet and return it to the stove.
5. Add the chopped reconstituted dried mushrooms to the onions in the bowl along with a hefty pinch of salt, ground black pepper to taste and the ground beef. Mix well and form into 4 burgers.
6. In the cleaned skillet, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil over medium. Season the burgers lightly with salt and pepper, then add them to the skillet. Cook the burgers for 3 to 5 minutes per side — 3 minutes for rare and 5 for medium-well.
7. Top each burger with sauce and serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 380 calories (210 calories from fat = 55 percent of total calories); 23 grams fat (6 grams saturated; 1 gram trans fats); 80 milligrams cholesterol; 13 grams carbohydrate (2 grams fiber; 2 grams sugar); 28 grams protein; 300 milligrams sodium.